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Sometimes it can be difficult to tell whether or not a touch-up haircut or routine trim is necessary. Of course it’s easy to see visual damage, breakage and split ends at the bottom of the hair shaft, but what about broken pieces and split ends located farther from the bottom? This is the problem tackled by a surface haircut, which specifically targets damage throughout the hair and not just the ends.
As with any haircut, the salon appointment is only as beneficial as the client’s dedication to a post-salon hair care routine until their next appointment. Not only will this help professional hair color last longer and keep hair looking healthy and fresh, but it also protects hair from heat damage, split ends and unnecessary breakage. Once it’s time to return to the salon, hair that is well cared for will be easier to touch up and trim via a surface haircut. Here’s a look into the cut, the best candidates for the technique and a few other helpful tips.
The Surface Cut Explained
The surface haircut technique has recently (and rightfully) gone viral on platforms like Instagram and TikTok as an unusual way for stylists to eliminate damaged pieces of hair without sacrificing any actual hair length. The technique is centered around the hair shaft, which falls between the crown of the head and the ends of the hair. It is performed by carefully using shears flat against the hair to snag dead hairs or split ends that stick out. The stylist holds a section of hair tight and steady in one hand while opening and closing the shears with special care along the hair shaft. The result is healthy hair that is free of damaged flyaways and split ends!
Surface Cut vs. Hair Trim: Weighing the Options
While the surface cut is definitely having a moment right now, don’t forget that a traditional trim can be super helpful as well. In addition to using professional hair care products to keep the hair looking healthy and nourished between major salon visits, it’s also important to remember that trims are a necessary part of caring for growing hair. A trim is defined as a haircut that sheds minimal length in order to remove damaged, dead or split ends from the bottom of the hair and additional layers. The results of a trim include shiny ends, healthier looking hair, added definition to a previous haircut and an overall refreshed look.
A surface cut can provide the same results, but on a different section of the hair. As a result of using hot tools, the outermost layer of hair tends to get dull and damaged first since it is taking on the most heat directly. A surface cut can act as a “trim” for that outermost layer of the hair shaft in that it refreshes that layer and leaves it looking healthier and shinier at the end. The truth is, some clients might need just one of these types of haircuts while some others (who use more heat on their hair, for example) might benefit from both a trim and a surface haircut. The best way to decide is to closely examine both the hair shaft and end sections to assess potential damage. Additionally, a trained stylist can help to determine the best actions to take during a salon visit.
Ideal Surface Cut Candidates
Though a surface cut can be performed on an array of hair types and lengths, there are a few characteristics that may make certain clients better suited for this type of haircut. A surface cut is best performed on those with either straight hair or slightly wavy hair that can be brushed or tightened into a straighter fashion while being cut. Performing a surface cut on very curly hair types can actually cause unwanted frizz or layering. This type of cut can especially benefit those who have bleached hair or those who use hot tools on the hair frequently. These both tend to exacerbate breakage and other types of damage. In addition to regular surface cuts, these candidates should strive to minimize damage by using a salon-quality shampoo and conditioner.
Post-Cut Styling Tips
After a surface haircut, there are certain professional hair styling products that can make the newly refreshed hair stand out and look even better. By using a high-quality shine oil on dry, straightened hair, the overall hair healthiness will be accentuated, making hair look sleek and extra shiny. For textured or curled styling after a surface cut, go for a medium hold hairspray that will lock in the desired shape without dulling luster or shine.
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